Ethnographic trip to Somalia and Somaliland: Exploring the Horn of Africa

Discover the highlights of this ethnographic trip to Somalia and Somaliland

We will walk the streets of Hargeisa

This ethnographic trip to Somalia and Somaliland will begin in the mythical city of Hargeisa. It is the capital of the Republic of Somaliland, with just over a million inhabitants. The city was devastated by bombing by the Somali army in 1988, due to the activities of separatist rebels. Since 1991, the date of the declaration of independence, the city has been rebuilt (with funds from Somali emigrants living outside the country). Currently is in better conditions than before the war. If time allows, we will take a walking tour through the heart of Hargeisa, which will include the currency exchange spots and the monuments to freedom. We will also visit the Hargeisa camel market, one of the highlights of the street tour of this peculiar city.

Dhagah Kure Rock Paintings

It is an enclave located 45 km from the capital of Somaliland, about two hours drive. It is made up of various shelters, spread over a rocky hill, which house cave paintings that are more than 5,000 years old and are located next to to nomadic pastoral areas. The main shelter has a sloping roof that is decorated with a set of bovid figures, as well as a giraffe and an anthropomorphic figure. The second most important shelter, located at the base of the granite outcrop, is adorned with panels depicting sheep (or goats) and some human figures holding a bow. Perhaps equally attractive is the disturbing landscape in which this site is located.

Laas Geel Rock Paintings

It is a place known for housing the best and oldest cave paintings in all of Africa, dating back to around 9,000 BC.

Ga’an Libah National Park

During this ethnographic trip to Somalia and Somaliland we will visit the Ga'an Libah National Park, a place for nature lovers where, with some luck, we will be able to spot specimens of klipspringers or various baboons.

Visit to Berbera

It is one of the oldest cities in Africa, next to the Red Sea. It is located in a strategic enclave for maritime trade, which made it the capital of British Somalia until 1941. From here, sheep, incense, gum arabic and myrrh are mainly exported. The most important recipient of goods is Yemen, from its city of Aden. Before the civil war, a port built by the Soviet navy was preserved and was later used by the United States. Currently it has been integrated into the large commercial port. We will tour the city by foot and we will be able to enjoy a swim in these historical waters.

Excursion to Sheikh

On this ethnographic trip to Somalia and Somaliland we will visit Sheikh. It is the second-highest mountain in Somalia (and Somaliland), and we will also tour the medieval ruins of Fardusa.

We will explore Mogadishu

During this ethnographic trip to Somalia and Somaliland we will visit Mogadishu, the capital of the unrecognized Republic of Somaliland. Despite being located near the equator, Mogadishu has an extremely arid climate, with little rain, and has high temperatures, becoming extreme in summer. This city was chosen by the Italians to be the capital of Italian Somalia, in 1905. Since then, it has been the main city of Somalia. At practical levels, Mogadishu’s authority over the rest of the country, since 1991, is symbolic, since both the city and the rest of Somalia are divided into zones of influence governed by clans. We will visit Liido Beach, the main leisure area of the capital, where we can relax, swim or take a boat ride. We will spend a entire day exploring Mogadishu, with the exception of the location of the Black Hawk Down and the Bakara market, as they are not safe areas.

© Photos by Xavi de las Heras taken during an ethnographic trip to Somalia and Somaliland.

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