Ethnographic trip to Afghanistan: Historic Cities and Ethnic Groups

Kabul

The route will begin in the great chaotic city of Kabul, which accumulates layers and layers of history. It is an objectively 'ugly' city, but it does keep small architectural and human treasures that we will dissect.

Bamiyan Valley

We will continue our way to Bamiyan. These central Buddhist lands are dominated by wild mountains, valleys and lakes. In this paradise live the Hazara, friendly people with Mongoloid features. Also, we will meet some Tajik communities. We will visit the ruins of the figures of the Bamiyan Buddhas. Finally, we will visit the ruins of the "red city" of Zuhak (S-VI), which was razed by Genghis Khan.

Gazni

The route will continue towards the arid and conservative south, Patan territory, one of the untamed peoples of Central Asia. We will visit the thousand-year-old city of Ghazni, the dazzling capital of the Ghaznavid Empire. The city lacks accommodation. For this reason we propose to sleep in a Hazara village. We will live with the villagers and get to know the life of rural Afghanistan, as well as their customs. We will try to witness a 'buzkashi' game.

Kandahar

This city has been 'banned' until 1 year ago. Going through it will allow us to understand what Afghanistan is like today and who is trying to govern it. We will take an urban tour accompanied by the Taliban, who will provide us with talks and photographs with a strong historical component. The city will offer us the chance to meet the Kuchi (goat-herding nomads) and the Jogui (Afghan gypsies).

Tajik village

Beautiful landscapes; mountains, infinite plains and beautiful adobe towns. We will visit a couple of Tajik villages to meet traditional communities.

Herat

The 'Persian' city of Herat is the third largest in population and economy in the country, and a great Afghan-Persian cultural center. We will visit the sanctuary of Rahman Jami, the fabulous minarets of Musalla (S-XV), the mausoleum of the Timurid-style queen (reigned by Tamerlane 1336-1405), the Aljama or Friday mosque (S-XIII), the old and fascinating ceramic workshop in a wing of the same mosque and we will end up visiting the oldest streets around the citadel.

© Photos by Edith Scharffenberg and Xavi de las Heras

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